Learn to Serge: Serging Circles

Serging Circles was the hardest thing for me to learn about the serger. I couldn’t get down how to serge a continuous circle. (Like the leg of a pant before sewing a hem). I could find how to serge a circle that was flat but not a continuous circle.

With a lot of trial and error I finally came to realize it actually isn’t difficult. Let me share with you what I’ve found.

Today we are going to learn how to serge two different kind of circles – continuous circles {if you didn’t catch that above ;)} and flat circles.

Serging Flat Circles: 

There are two basic ways you can serge a flat circle. Have the circle already cut out, or cut and serge the circle at the same time. This obviously can be with one piece of fabric or multiple layers. Check out this tutorial if you want to know more about serging with multiple layers.

• Start your serger in the correct position = presser foot and needles raised to the highest position.

• Align your seam allowance with the blade. Read more here for details on serging with a seam allowance.
• Begin serging slow. You will use your right hand to guide the seam allowance, and your left hand to guide the fabric around the circle.
• If you are using pins because you are serging with multiple layers, make sure to take the needles out before they reach the blade.
• Serge around the circle.
• When you get to the end, cut the tail of the thread chain (see image below). 
• After cutting the thread chain, turn off your blade. Serge another 2″ (with the blade off). Turn your blade back on and end the stitch.
• End the stitch by pulling the fabric towards the left
• Keep pulling
• Read here for more details on how to end a serged stitch

Serging Continuous Circles: 

In my job (I sew custom swimsuits and custom dance outfits) I serge continuous circles more than anything else… we’re talking things like hotshorts, dance dresses, hemming pants, hemming shirts, etc.

I’ll show you two ways to do this.

FIRST –

use this way if you are serging a continuous circle that hasn’t already been closed into a circle. (Say you cut out pants and you are going to serge the bottom so you can hem them).

Before closing up the seam, serge the straight line of the pants. (You can use this method for any continuous circle, pants are just the example).

It’s easier to serge a straight line, than it is to serge a continuous circle. So if you have the opportunity to use this method, do it.

SECOND –

Obviously when you can’t serge a straight line, you have to serge around the circle.

When you have to serge around a continuous circle, treat it like a straight line… {eyebrows squish together in confusion}… just follow me here. . .

• Raise presser foot and needles to highest position
• Take off the extra plastic on the arm/neck
  
• Place the starting point of your fabric as far under the needles as you can; until you reach the thread.
  • Since serging a continuous circle typically means you are starting in the middle of fabric, it’s important to make sure you have your fabric in as far as it can go.
• Lower presser foot
• Serge as if it’s a straight line
• When you get all the way around the circle
  
• Finish the seam as if it was a flat circle (see details above). Or for more details on how to finish a serged stitch, check out this tutorial 
• It will look similar to this: 
  

Now you’re thinking, “Wait, that’s it? It can’t be that easy.”  I assure you, serging a continuous circle is that easy. I made way bigger deal of it when was first learning. It does take practice, but it truly is as easy as serging a straight line.

I know what you must be thinking now {because I’m thinking it too!} “I’m loving my serger more and more as I learn how easy it is to use!!” 😀 boy oh boy that sure makes me happy!!

Your homework: 

You can choose one of the following. This HAT tutorial here, hem a pair of pants, or try your hand at a maxi skirt tutorial here. Either way, I want you to practice with one project that requires serging circles!

If you need to catch up on any of the previous Learn to Serge lessons, click here.

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Since the Learn to Serge Series has been so popular, I have put all of the lessons in one easy-to-read ebook.

Click here to download your copy.